Look at the reverse
Turn a corner of the saree over. On a well-woven brocade the reverse shows the pattern clearly in floats of thread. It tells you more about the weave than the front does.
Judge the density of the jaal
A closely worked jaal covers more of the body and reads richer, but also adds weight. A sparser buti pattern feels lighter and is easier to wear for a long evening.
Match the zari tone to your jewellery
Warm gold zari sits naturally with temple and antique gold jewellery; cooler silver-toned brocade works with kundan, diamond and polki sets.
Where it works best
Receptions, sangeets, festive evenings and engagement functions. Brides who want a Banarasi for the ceremony itself usually choose a heavier piece with a broader border so it reads formal enough beside traditional silks.
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